Cuba
Trinidad
Trinidad, Cuba is a charmingly colorful Spanish colonial settlement founded in 1514. In 1988, UNESCO announced it as a World Heritage Site. The historic sections of town are extremely well preserved and cars are not let on the cobblestone streets. It is definitely worth a visit but rather touristy. The true essence and grit of Trinidad resides on the outskirts of town. This is where daily life seems to carry on as it has for many many years. You will be doing yourself a huge favor if you venture out of the "bubble." The greatest learning comes from pushing your comfort zone and being curious. I found the people to be wonderfully genuine and inviting. I had so many great conversations and insights that I would have missed if I didn't put myself out there.
Trinidad Framed
Taking in the sunset overlooking Trinidad, Cuba from the iconic church San Franciso de Asis. Street level, Trinidad is a bustling and vibrant town, but from above, I found a sense of tranquility and was really able to connect with the city in a simple yet poignant way. While the crowds at the top of the bell tower jockeyed for position, I took the steps two floors down and found this beautiful nook. I then patiently waited for the sun to come into the frame over the ocean in the distance.
A Store Stuck in Time
Walking the streets of Havana, this store caught my eye. I was a bit nervous to enter as it was in a local neighborhood, and I had my rather large camera in hand. I try and feel places out before just snapping away. A guy on the street noticed me taking a curious eye and ushered me into the store urging me to take photos and introducing me to the store owner. Each time I look at this scene, I find a new detail of an old relic.
Share Some Rum
In Havana, I ran into a rather outgoing fellow. Mauri invited me into a famed local bar to enjoy a glass of rum with him. The bar was beautifully austere. He excitedly took me to a wall and showed me old photos of all of the famous Cuban musicians who had played at the bar and enjoyed a few drinks. He beamed with pride. I felt a true connection with Mauri and sense of nostalgia for yesteryear. We were just two guys enjoying a glass of Havana Rum. We aren't that different after all. Salud!
Malecón Nights
"For centuries, Cuba's greatest resource has been its people."- Pico Iyer
Just arrived home from Cuba. It's a fascinatingly complex country full of vibrancy, diversity and paradox. Yes there is extreme poverty. Yes there has been suppression of enterprise and freedoms we often take for granted. Yes there has been a violent history and sense of isolationism in a globalizing world...but it is by no means static. It is a dynamic place full of life, incredible stories of hardship and triumph..of pride yet contempt...and of extreme cultural wealth but material destitution. It would take lifetimes to tackle the myriad stories played out. I was given a snapshot and did my best to sit and talk with people, engage in everyday opportunities and observe. I will be sharing my photos and stories that I hope spark curiosity and provide a humble glimpse into a place that has been so obscured, romanticized and feared in our imaginative narratives here in the U.S. I provide no definitive truths...I had my camera, my notepad, open mind and infinite curiosity.
Pictured: The Malecón in Havana, a broad seawall stretching for 5 miles constructed by the U.S. beginning in 1901 to protect from the high tides but in reality, it became a vibrant and soulful place for all Habaneros to socialize, fish, play music, drink, debate dance, play chess, people watch, be openly romantic and get some relative peace from the bustle of urban life. A quintessential heartbeat of Havana. It's pulse is palpable.. an authentic theater of the human experience. At sunset, it's particularly active with people sitting on the wall enjoying the ethereal light as the ocean takes on a beautiful violet hue, and old buildings lit by antiquated yellow lights collide with the newer glitzy blue tones and high rises in the wealthier Vedado barrio. Take a seat and stay awhile. No wifi here...just humans being human. A true gem.
Siesta
Clip clop. Clip clop. The omnipresent sounds along rural Cuban roads. Horse drawn taxis are among the most common means of transportation for rural Cubans. Why would people still be using this 1800s-style of transportation?
When the Soviet collapse in 1991 occurred, so did Cuba's primary aid and trade ally. Cuba fell into further isolation having already tarnished relationships with the United States in 1960. Fewer and fewer cars and buses were being imported. For most, a new car was out of the equation. Government permission was required which usually was granted to the elite (cronies or those working in development and high end tourism). An old, barely functioning car would go for roughly $10,000-15,000 -- the average wage a Cuban would earn over 20-25 years.
Cubans are not an insipid bunch. Instead of truculent resistance, they tapped into their unflappable resilience and decided to re-integrate horse-drawn carriages and bike taxis that didn't require fossil fuels. After gaining traction, in 2010 the government officially recognized these small, private enterprises to ameliorate the plagued transportation shortages. Today, they are ubiquitous. Remarkably, as cars continuously whiz by, the horses seem to stay focused. I was told accidents do occur and horses can be literally run into the ground with exhaustion just to make ends meet; however, many owners treat their horses well knowing they are integral to their livelihoods. Pictured here are two men taking a long siesta in the heat of the day at Playa Ancon. Tunes blasted from an antiquated radio, a few shots of aguardiente (cheap rum) were thrown back, and they bathed their horse in cool waters. We chatted, they offered me a swig of rum out of an old plastic water bottle and kindly requested me to take a seat. I happily obliged. Just another day in the life trying to get by. At least it is a wonderful setting!
Symmetry
A man in Trinidad, Cuba pops out of his house to take a quick survey down the street as the city takes on a slower pace during the mid-afternoon scorching heat. Siestas are needed in this part of the world.
The Spirit of Cuba
The spirit of Cuba: Music. It's ubiquitous, it's full of pageantry and life, it's passion. It makes your soul smile and your body groove.
Walking down the Malecón in Havana, this welcoming, albeit very drunk man blocked my path, extended his hand and exclaimed, "My frrriend! Where'd arrre youuu fdrromm?" I pridefully responded "The United States" (This is in large part because of Obama was still in office). "Welllcommmm! What'd is yourrr name?" "Ryan," I say. "Rrrryann, I will play a song for'd youuu." He quickly strums his guitar and belts out my name mixed with many fun cliche hooks. It's not going to make the Billboard charts anytime soon, but that is besides the point. It's passionate. It's drunk. It's soulful and fun. He then cordially offers me a sip out of his plastic water bottle filled with cheap rum. This is a common theme in Cuba. I happily take a few swigs. Ohh, that beautiful warm tingly feeling followed by the rancid aftertaste of cheap aguardiente rum. Yum! I take a seat, and I join in on the fun. I watch him greet numerous passerby's over the next hour. He is a smile generating machine. He gets many to dance and sing with him.
Cuba's Greatest Resource: Its People.
"Cuban eyes often look close to tears. Tears never seem far away because both their pain and their joy are always so close to the surface."- Brin-Jonathan Butler
On a surface level, many of us are drawn to Cuba for joyrides in classic America cars, sipping Cuba Libres at one of Hemingway's favorite watering holes, smoking the finest cigars in the world, being serenaded by a street band singing Guantanamera and indulging in a seemingly nostalgic cultural yesteryear.
True, these are infinitely alluring...but if you visit Cuba, you'll be failing yourself if you don't engage with the people (even if you don't speak much Spanish). They are irresistible. Their tangled complex and diverse histories are fascinatingly unique. I found myself perpetually sitting on park benches for hours on a daily basis. I had so many profound conversations with Cubans and learned so much through observation. One thing I found out about most Cubans.... they love to talk. They are passionate, charming, opinionated and proud. It is paradox at its finest. For a people that have been oppressed in myriad ways, they maintain an honorable sense of pride and genuineness that is palpable. In my experience, they were sincerely open to chatting and welcomed me with open arms. Right off the bat, they would ask where I was from. "Estados Unidos," I replied... half expecting to have to defend myself against our current political mess and turbulent history with Cuba...but no...they would all too often say "Bienvenidos a Cuba! Somos amigos! Venga y siéntate! Welcome to Cuba! We are friends! Come and Sit! I was genuinely surprised. Their welcoming spirit satiated my soul. Amazingly, with such a vitriolic history, they welcome anyone to sit next to them and chat. We could all do a bit more of this at home here in the states. Travel breeds compassion, vulnerability and expression.. Mil gracias Cuba!
Glimpse of Cuban Life
"Fifty years of isolating Cuba had failed to promote democracy, setting us back in Latin America. That's why we restored diplomatic relations, opened the door to travel and commerce, and positioned ourselves to improve the lives of the Cuban people" -Barack Obama
As we enter the final week with President Obama in charge, I want to thank him for so much. He has held the highest office with integrity, compassion and a humble brilliance. This photo symbolizes the "opened door." I was able to get a brief glimpse into Cuban life thanks to Obama's decision to lift the sanctions.
This photo was taken at a school in Trinidad, Cuba. I was walking by a crumbling wall when I came across this little hole. It was maybe 8 inches long by 6 inches high. When I took a peak inside, it was a perfect framed scene of kids playing basketball during recess. For me, this photo represent so much. Clearly it's just a glance at life...I do not pretend to command expertise on Cuba after my brief visit....but I did get a glimpse of what life is like....and in the end, it is a place full of abundant life and humans being humans. One of my favorite photography quotes is by Sally Mann. "Photographs open doors into the past but they also allow a look into the future." Even though many Cubans have suffered through incredible hardships and repression and much of the infrastructure is crumbling....they remain vibrant and full of life and play. Thanks in large part to Obama, many Americans like myself can now visit a place that has lived in our perceived imaginative past, and hopefully with a bit of a better understanding and restoring relations, we can look to a brighter future with Cuba. It has long been a forbidden fruit, but now we have the chance to taste it and savor in all of its complex flavors.
Trinidad Nights
Señor, estamos cerrando." Mil disculpas! Solo una foto mas por favor!" "Sir, we are closing." "Sorry! One more photo please!" I had just come down from the top of the famous bell tower at the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco in historic Trinidad. I was at the top taking in the sunset (which was beautiful as the fiery sun faded below the horizon on the ocean; however, it was crowded. Really crowded.
I decided to head down to the lower level and enjoy a bit of the colors at dusk and have some quiet and reflective time. As soon as the sun had vanquished, everyone immediately left. They captured their sunset photos and were content. I had the place to myself. It was tranquility. The colors seemed to pop more and more.
The man working at the church did his rounds to make sure everyone had left. He found me on the terrace and told me they were closing. I politely asked if I could take one last photo. He kindly obliged and the result is this. I really love the colors in this one. The ocean almost looks like a cloud or hill in the background. The blue building exudes the colonial style that represents historic Trinidad. However, beyond the pretty picture, the takeaway of this little tale is to stick around for awhile! We all rush to capture that moment, we all rush to capture that moment....we forget to slow down and be patient. Some of my favorite photos and moments of presence and self-reflection directly correlate to when I slow down, I breathe, I check-in with my senses, I observe, and I just connect with the world.
Porches
Porches are America's lost rooms.
"-Barbara Grizzuti Harrison
Dusk in Trinidad, Cuba. Consider this photo an ode to my southern roots or my yearning nostalgic desire. One of the most appealing aspects of Cuba, or perhaps my travels in general is the retention of community via sitting outside. Neighbors and families sit outside and chat. They laugh, they listen, they debate, they observe and they interact with passerby's. Perceptively, it taps into a powerful emotive desire. It just feels right. It feels human.
Admittedly, one of the more arduous cultural norms I find about living in the United States is the lack of outward and genuine appreciation of community. Holistically speaking, we sequester ourselves behind closed doors. We don't connect with each other in the day-to-day. In my humble opinion, largely this has led to the turmoil we are seeing. We fashion bubbles, we litter our yards and front doors with no trespassing signs, we shy away from conflict, we callously attack each other on keyboards, and we take away human interaction. Don't get me wrong, social media is a wonderful platform, and it's amazing to be able to connect with my friends around the world at the snap of a finger; however, I desperately wish we would sit outside, welcome each other into our homes, share a cup of coffee, sit on the front porch and watch the world go by...and just be...to just be present and connect with each other versus ensconced behind locked doors and screens.
Behind my subjectively pretty photos, there is a larger message...I hope. I hope to use my photography as tool for activism and awareness...to capture moments in time that portray the essence of what it means to be human. I welcome a healthy dialogue and would love to hear your thoughts! Thanks for engaging! I wish we could do it over a cup of coffee...but this will do!
Abuelo
A grandfather keeps a watchful eye on his grandchildren while simultaneously engaging with passerby's on the streets of Trinidad, Cuba. An indelible image of Cuba imprinted on my mind is how people engage with the streets. The vibrant live theater, mingling, observing and soaking up life gives the cities and towns a palpable heartbeat. It just feels right. It feels human.
Derelict Vibrancy
Derelict Vibrancy. An oxymoron of sorts. Upon first glance, this photo seems to be just another architectural shot from Havana, but if you look closer, notice all the various colors played out in each window, and the women with a look of ennui and exhaustion observing the daily scenes play out below. There is a derelict vibrancy, a touch of sadness with a brushstroke of panache. A simple photo with complex undertones that portray Cuban life.
derelictvibrancyculturehousebuildingcolorsarchitecturehavanacuba
Classic Havana
"North Americans don't understand... that our country is not just Cuba; our country is also humanity."- Fidel Castro
Say what you will about Fidel Castro, but this quote rings true, especially in Havana. The city is a living and breathing theater.. It's energy, it's vibrancy, it's diversity, and nostalgic evocation are unmistakable. With every turn, you are greeted with scenes that speak to you in a visceral way. This is one of those scenes for me.
Malecon Sunrise
Fisherman gather along the famed Malecon at sunrise before the city gets a bit busier.
American Classic
What would a gallery of Cuba be without photos of vintage American cars? Much of our perceived imagery of Cuba is of classic cars rumbling down the city streets...it's true..they are ubiquitous and quite charming. I didn't grow up in the 50's but it does provide a quasi-time portal. Nostalgic for sure. The average car on the road in the United States is around 11 years old. In Cuba....65 years old.
These cars mainly exist because of the US trade embargo in 1960. New American cars have been off-limits for purchase. Also the parts. No parts for these cars are manufactured anymore and even if they were, they wouldn't have been imported into Cuba. The result, a very imaginative and industrious bunch. Throughout Cuba, you see people perpetually working on their cars. They take pride in them, and they also require constant maintenance. You basically have to be your own mechanic and be able to fashion or improvise some sort of fix when a part malfunctions. I was told a Lada, which is a really basic Russian car can go for $10-15,000 in Cuba whereas these old American cars are virtually rendered worthless based on their hodgepodge of cumulative often homemade parts. Lada's run "forever" and parts are easy to find. It is hard to imagine a Cuba without these American classics. They are woven into the cultural fabric of our imagination.
Fidel Doppelganger
“Enough of selfishness. Enough of schemes of domination. Enough of insensitivity, irresponsibility and deceit. Tomorrow will be too late to do what we should have done a long time ago.”- Fidel Castro
An excerpt from a rousing speech given by Castro in Rio at the U.N. Earth Summit. Cuba remains a paradox for me. Fidel carried with him an incredibly ruthless and violent past; however, he spoke about bettering humanity in terms akin to above. He was brilliant yet repressive. He was a revolutionary but a totalitarian. He drastically improved literacy rates, access to healthcare and illuminated many issues surrounding social justice. He also spearheaded many brutal executions, suppressed free speech and supported many subversive violent movements in Latin America.
Pictured here, is a man I found on the streets that could be considered a Fidel doppelganger. He sat next to me, and we spoke for just a minute. He was terse, gritty and straightforward. He proudly stated, "Hasta Siempre Fidel." (Until Always Fidel). My opinion, it's complicated. The truth matters, knowledge is power, studying history is advantageous to progress. Pertinent to our simmering situation here in the United States; the President should take note. He'd greatly benefit from studying the complicated histories to make informed decisions.
Checking In
A man walking down the streets in Trinidad, Cuba checks in on the neighborhood remodeling project. In my time in Cuba, I have seen many restoration projects start to take place on some of the historically beautiful but dilapidated buildings.
Viñales Valley Sunset
Sunset overlooking the famed mogotes (dome shaped limestone outcroppings) of Viñales Valley. This region about 2.5 hours west of Havana is often cited as Cuba's most alluring landscape. It's famed for its tobacco that produces some of the finest cigars.. Moreover, the soil is fertile and climate conducive to growing many other fruits, sugarcane, coffee and raising livestock. A certain sense of authenticity is found here even with the inundation of tourists. Life tends to move at a slower pace; animals are still the primary means for cultivating farmland and the rural homes are rather rustic.
Pedal Power
Many might see this as unsafe. True. But in many places it's also a necessity to get around.
Havana Mornings
Sunlight greeting the buildings in Havana as the Taxis head out to take excited tourists around the old city.
A Moment In Time
Freezing a moment in time in vibrant Havana is a monumental task. It's a dynamic full on assault on the senses. It's the definition of live theater.
A typical street scene might include: Young kids joyously running around utilizing makeshift household items to erect fútbol goals or setting up bases for their game of béisbol; People throwing down ropes hooked into pulleys from their 4th floor apartments to have someone on the street place a meal on a plate before heaving it back up; Elders sitting and chatting about everything from Lionel Messi to financial struggles; Couples holding hands, openly kissing and groping; Men profusely sweating while working underneath their old classic American cars providing the daily maintenance with rudimentary tools; Garbage collectors in an alley behind a fancy hotel scouring through trash trucks pulling out shampoo bottles and giving them a quick smell test before pocketing them to take home; Police confidently patrolling in pairs keeping an eye on things; A street band playing an impromptu gig belting out popularized Cuban folk songs; Vendors strolling the streets selling everything from fruits to cleaning supplies; A stoic, serious game of chess with 10 people huddled around intent on watching every move. It’s cacophonous yet enchanting with a very authentic 1950s vibe. The first day, I purposefully left my camera behind. I didn't want to be distracted before I let my senses embed themselves into daily Havana street life.
This photo was taken while sitting curbside for a good hour just observing. It isolates a rather typical daily scene. A taxi driver takes a smoke break next to his classic Chevy. A nurse on lunch break, buys a quick snack in an austere store that has very few items to sell. It is one of my favorite photos. Simple yes, but it captures a particular mood that is uniquely Cuban. I would love to hear your thoughts!
Cuban Movie
This scene looked straight out of a classic movie to me. Havana has many of those moments.
Live Theater
Handyman
I peered over the terrace from the top floor at the home in Havana I was staying in and saw this man working on his motorcycle. In Cuba, parts are hard to come by and everyone seems to be their own mechanic. I have a bit of "handyman" envy. It's amazing how imaginative we humans are, when we are forced to be creative and industrious.
Street Life
A typical street scene in Havana.
Chess Match
A heated game of chess in Havana. The guy in the white was driving the fancy red car seen here parked. He rolled up blasting loud techno music with the bass thumping through everyone's chest. He casually parked, got out, flicked his hair back and took his shades off. It was as if he was a boxer making his entrance to the ring. His opponent, the older gentleman sat legs crossed, nonchalantly puffing on a cigarette showcasing his finest poker face. Without hesitation, he rolled out a makeshift chess board and dumped the pieces on the board and began organizing them. Without a word, the two started playing. No frills, no nonsense. This is just another daily scene on the streets of Havana.
Boys Will Be Boys
Boys always seem to have to walk on a wall when they see one. It's one of those simple things in life that keeps boys a bit on edge.
